![]() ![]() The rest of this run, then, will be handled using 4AWG Al XHHW-2 in 1.5" RMC masts, along with Burndy AGSKIT2 splice kits, dual-rated split bolts and pipe grounding clamps, service wire holders and weatherheads, and some 6AWG or 8AWG bare copper for jumpering the messenger to the mast at each end. While you're there, you'll need to figure out the sag and tension for this cable to make sure its at a sufficient height that nobody runs into it: putting the lowest point of the cable's arc 12' above ground is generally adequate on a house-lot, but the mast height and extra cable length required to get there vary depending on your climate. Instead, you'll need to visit the local electric supply house and get a "Chola" cable - this is a 6-6-6-6 aluminum service drop cable, and good for almost 70A as you can use the 90☌ column in table 310.20 for this run. ![]() Using 4 (3 + ground)conductors as this is a sub-panel, and not a drop from a power pole.įirst off, the cable you want for this isn't going to turn up at a big-box store, since it's generally only used for overhead service drops. just need some part number to something to figure out the type of outside drop wire to use. Sorry for long winded, never been here before. In past have used CU, but thinking of now using AL which I know on the chart will effect my size wire. Even though I will be using 60 amp, I will be running 100 amp service and I recall in NEC I thought all overhead drops had to be a min of 100 amp, and underground service min 200 amp. Also looking at voltage drop calc trying to keep within 3% (5%max) drop I can do.Īnyway, I am burnt out as I am trying to figure out which type of insulated overhead cable to use. weather resist, UV, voltage rating.) Understand height above roof, service head, drip loop, securing with Gav stranded line between building and drop to garage. Sect 225, 338, 340 and other codes regulate type of overhead outside cable (i.e. with oversight in the past by a contractor friend so I know all is ok. I have done home wiring before, put in main panels and sub-panels, hot tubs, etc. I am familiar with NEC but not a professional. Can you cook, iron, run the microwave, vacuum, cut wood, run the DC, and soak in the whirlpool bath at the same time with the air conditioning and hot tub running?, Some households can and do.Īlso remember if this is a detached building there are some special rules (or codes) for running the wire and hooking it up.First time running overhead drop from home to unattached garage, main panel more than able to support service. Remember its not all the stuff you have its all the stuff you want to use at the same time. Most breakers will trip if run continuous for more than 3 hours at greater than 80% of their rating. Standard breakers have two trip mechanisms (short, and over-current). When trying to figure out how much power try not to exceed 80% of the breakers rating. This subpanel will be a 60amp panel at 240V so again if you are using 120v equipment you would have up to 120amps available. If you install to code you will need a 4 wires ground, 2 hot, 1 neutral. As tom pointed out you really only need 3 circuits one for general power (lights, radio, battery charger), one for TS/Planer/Router etc, and 1 for DC. Both used all gas appliance, (except AC), no jetted bath tubs or other large appliance other than the wood shop.įor the subpanel 60A is perfect. I have owned 2 old homes with 100 amp services that were more than sufficient. You certainly don’t want to max it out and it important to remember more that 100amps on either leg will trip the main breaker so balance is important. 240v uses both legs, however 120v only uses 1 leg, that is why if you are only using 120v equipment you will have 100 amps of service on each leg (or 200 amps total). Remember that a 100 amp service is rated at 240V, in other words it is rated for 100 amps per leg. You only need to upgrade to 200 amps if you think you will need that much power. ![]()
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